The Soup Comes First
Soups were very popular on Thanksgiving menus during the late 1800's and early 1900's, showing up on practically every menu during this time period. It was common for soup to be the part of the first service in a formal dinner, so they are often listed first. Things begin to shift during the 1920's as trends in food and food service change in America. By the 1930's, soups show-up on roughly half the Thanksgiving menus. In the 1940s, that number drops even more. The type of soup ranged greatly from the typical oyster soup to recipes that were heavily influenced by French cooking by way of England. Below are a range of recipes for soups featured in Thanksgiving meals..
Soup Recipes
1882: Vermicelli Soup
- 12 cups stock (beef or chicken)
- 2 ounces vermicelli
Place your vermicelli in collander. Rinse with cold water and let drain. Heat the stock in a large pot. When it begins to boil, add the vermicelli. Let it boil for a few minutes until done, and then serve.
- Dingens Brothers. The Cosmopolitan Cook And Recipe Book. Buffalo: N. Y.: Printing house of E. H. Hutchinson, 1882.
1886: Oyster Soup
- 1 bunch celery
- 4 cups of water
- 2 qts oysters and their juice
- Salt and pepper
- 1 cup milk or cream
- 1 tbsp flour
- 4 tbsps butter
Remove the leafy parts and root of a bunch of celery. Cut up the celery and stew until tender in four cups of water. Strain and set aside. Bring oysters to a boil in their juice in a large pot. At the first sign of boiling, remove the oysters from the part with a strainer, and skim the surface of the remaining juice. Season the juice with salt and pepper. Boil the milk or cream in a small pot along with the flour, wetted with a little milk so it doesn't clump. Slowly stir in the boiling milk or cream to the oyster juice. Now add the water in which the celery was boiled, the oysters, and the butter to the oyster juice pot. Boil it and serve with thin wafers.
Half of this quantity will be enough for eight or ten people.
- Ballou's Monthly Magazine Boston, Mass.: Elliott, Thomes & Talbot, vol. 64, 1886.
1888: Cream of Rice Soup
- 6-8 cups of chicken broth
- 1/3 cup of rice
- 1 tbsp salt
- 1/2 tsp pepper
- 2 tbsp butter
- 2 tbsps of chopped carrot
- 2 tbsps of chopped onion
- 2 tbsps of chopped turnips
- 2 tbsps of chopped celery
- 1 tbsp of flour
- 1 stick of cinnamon
- 1/4 tsp mace
- 2 whole cloves
- 1 cup milk
- 1 cup heavy cream
This soup can be made the day before it is needed. Add chicken broth to pot. Add the rice, salt, and pepper. Set on the stove over medium-low heat. Meanwhile, add the butter to a small frying pan along with the chopped carrot, turnip, onion, and celery. Cover and cook over medium-low heat for 20 minutes. Stir often and do not let the vegetables brown. After twenty minutes, push the vegetables to one side of the pan and press the butter from them. Add them to the pot with the soup. Add the flour into the butter remaining in the pan, stir the mixture until it is smooth and frothy, and then stir it into the soup. Add a the cinnamon stick, the mace, and the clovesto the soup. Cook on medium-low hear for one to two hours. Take out the whole spices, strain the soup, and set away to cool.
The day of serving, bring the soup to a boil. As soon as the soup begins to boil, add the milk and cream. Once it begins to boil again, remove from heat and serve hot.
- Good Housekeeping Holyoke, Mass.: C.W. Bryan, 1888.
1889: Consomme a la Royal
- 8 1/4 cups beef stock, 1/4 reserved
- 1 tbsp beef bouillon
- 4 cups milk, scalded
- Salt
- Cayenne pepper, ground or sauce
- 2 tsps of onion juice
- 2 egg yolks
- White pepper
- Nutmeg
Bring the stock to a boil in a large pot. In a separate pot, add milk and scald. Remove stock from heat, and add in the bouillon, scalded milk, and then add salt and cayenne pepper to taste. Mix well and add onion juice. Stir. Put on low heat so that mixture will stay warm, but not boil.
Meanwhile, in a bowl beat the yolks of two eggs until light. Add the reserved stock, a dash of white pepper, and a sprinkle of nutmeg. Pour the mixture into a greased pie tin. Set in the ovenat 350° in a shallow pan of warm water until the mixture hardens, but does not brown. Once it hardens, cut into diamond shapes pieces and put in the consomme. Serve immediately.
- Table Talk. Philadelphia: Table Talk Publishing Company, vol. 4, 1889.
1889: Mock Bisque Soup
- 4 cups of milk
- 2 cups of canned tomatoes or one cup stewed tomatoes
- 1 tbsp of butter
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 sprig of parsley
- 1/2 tsp ground mace or one blade of mace
- 1 tsp of sugar
- 2 tbsps of flour
Place tomatoes in a pot. Cook the tomatoes with the bay, parsley, and mace for fifteen minutes. Put the milk in a large pot, and slowly bring to a boil. Rub the flour and butter together, and once the milk is boiling, and the butter and flour mixture. Stir constantly until the milk thickens. Press the tomatoes through a sieve with a spoon. Combine the tomatoes, sugar, and boiling milk together, and turn off the heat to the pot immediately. Stir and serve immediately.
- Table Talk. Philadelphia: Table Talk Publishing Company, vol. 4, 1889.
1893: Consomme
- 2 slices bacon
- 1 onion
- 2 lbs lean beef
- 2 lbs veal
- 16 cups water
- 2 sprigs parsley
- 1 celery stalk
- 1/2 a carrot
- A small piece of dried lemon peel
- One egg white
- Caramel food coloring
Fry the bacon in large stock pot. Remove. Slice the onion and brown in the bacon grease. Cut the lean beef and veal into small pieces, add to the pot with the onions, and cook until browned. Add the 16 cups of water, bring to a boil, and then reduce to a simmer for four hours. After four hours, add the parsley, celery, carrot, and dried lemon peel. Simmer for one more hour, strain, and then let cool. Once the soup is cool, skim off the fat from the surface, clarify using an egg white, and strain again. When ready to use, heat and add a bit of caramel food coloring before serving.
- Table Talk. Philadelphia: Table Talk Publishing Company, vol. 8, 1893.